What filter should you use for your Ford? That is your choice. Here is how I see it - 

The import things to consider are:

• Quality of construction (no matter how good the specs, if it is built poorly, stay away)
• Micron rating. If the filter lets particles above a certain size through, then excessive engine wear may result. If it filters out particles smaller than necessary, then the filter will load up quickly and go into the bypass mode too soon (effectively giving you no filter at all)
• Filtering efficiency. The higher the better, assuming you have the correct micron rating.
• Filter capacity. The more contaminants the filter can hold the better.
• Bypass Valve Setting. A higher setting is good unless the filter restricts flow.
• Filter Flow Capacity - the higher the better.
• Anti-Drain Back Valve Material – Silicone is the preferred choice. Silicone will remain flexible for a much longer time than the nitrile rubber used in the cheaper filters. Staying flexible is key to providing a good seal throughout the life of the oil filter.
• Bypass Valve Location – Locating the relief valve at the base end of the filter is desirable. For a filter with a dome end relief valve, when the valve is open, oil passes over the dirty side of the filter and then through the valve. This may result in the oil picking up contaminants from the dirty side of the filter and carrying them back into the engine. The FL-820S design is at the base end of the filter. For this filter, when the relief valve is in operation, oil flows directly from the filter intake to the filter outlet without passing over the dirty side of the media. The "Ford"  Logo Filters were the only “quality” FL-820S equivalent filters evaluated so far with the relief valve at the bottom. The cheaper Champion Labs filters had an undesirable combination anti-drain back and relief valve located at the bottom. I would like more information on the importance of the relief valve location. Of all the filters examined (including filters from Nissan, Toyota, and New Holland), the "Ford" fitlers and the Wix 51334 filter (a Honda Civic filter) are the only filters with a base end relief valve. I know this is a more expensive location, but is it really that important? Ford must think so, at least for the FL-820S applications. Why don't any other manufacturers agree?

Here is how I rate the filters I have evaluated (regardless of cost) -

Group 1 (My personal favorites)

• Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820
• Motorcraft FL-820S
• Ford OE Filter
• Purolator PureOne PL24651

Group 2 (Filters I might use)

• Fleetguard LF16002
• Denso 150-1014
• Amsoil Ea011
• Wix 51372
• Mobil 1 M1-210
• K&N HP-2010 

Group 3 (Filters I'd rather not use)

• Donaldson P550965
• Motorcraft MFL-820
• Bosch 3410
• Purolator Premium Plus L24651
• Fleetguard LF3681
• Hastings LF110 (aka Baldwin B329 / Casite CF-110)

Group 4 (Filters I won't use)

• Pro-Tec 159
• Pep Boys ProLine PPL-24651
• C.G.Enterprises Viper 2 Oil Filter
• Advance Auto Totalgrip AA2
• Fram TG2
• Fram PH2
• Walmart ST2
• STP S2
• ACDelco PF1250

Whether price is a major factor or not, the Motorcraft FL820S Filter is near the top of my list for a filter to be used on a Ford product. Motorcraft does not claim the FL-820S has a particularly good efficiency rating, but to my eye the filter material is the same type as the Purolator PL24651 Filter or any of the “premium” filters with the cellulose/synthetic media. The Ford Racing Filter is clearley a "better" version of the FL-820S, but I don't think it is enough better to justify the much higher cost  - at least for a properly maintained stock street vehicle. The Mexican produced Motorcraft MFL-820 is equivalent in most ways to the standard FL-820 filter. It differs in some trival ways and in some important ways. The filter media appears to be the same and there is more of it. The inner core support is of a stronger type. The relief valve is on the bottom and silimilar to the valve in the Wix 51334 Honda filter. The only negative for the MFL-820 is the nitrile anti-drain back valve. It is similar to the valve used in the cheaper WIX FL-820 equivalents (like the Pro-Tec 159). I've always tended to stick with OEM Filters. However, many of the non-Ford/Motorcraft filters are worthy of consideration. The Amsoil filter has good published specs, but it is very pricey, and it's construction is very different. The Fleetguard LF16002 appears to use the same media as the Amsoil EaO11 and it uses more of it, so if you like the Amsoil media and can live with the LF16002's nitrile ADBV, then the LF16002 is a filter worth considering. If the location of the relief valve does not worry you, then the Purolaor PureOne appears to be a very good filter. The Denso 150-1014, Wix 51372, Mobil 1 M210, and K&N HP-2010 filters appear to be decent filters, but all have the relief valve on the dome end, and are pricey in comparison to the FL-820S.

The information in my discussion only applies to the FL-820S equivalents. Other filters types may differ significantly.

Just how important is the installing a quality oil filter to maximizing the life of an engine? I believe the oil filter is no better than fourth in terms of importance to maximizing engine life. The most important maintenance item is the air filter, followed by oil quality, and the PCV system. The primary path of contamination into your engine is the air intake system. An engine takes in tremendous volumes of air (over 1300 cubic feet of air per gallon of gasoline). A significant portion of the contamination in the oil enters the engine via the air intake system. It is clear that stopping the contamination at the source is more efficient that trying to filter it out of the oil. A good quality oil is important because it both lubricates and cools an engine. An oil that breaks down won't protect your engine, no matter how well it is filtered. The PCV system is important because it represents a secondary path for contamination to enter an engine. It is also is vital to prevent the build up of contamination in the oil.