Southern California Rock Climbing 101

Ripped ex-Marines rappel over waterfalls in the jungles of Borneo. Lithe women climbers cling upside down to invisible holds in outdoor competitions. You've seen indoor climbing, technical rock climbing and mountaineering on the Outdoor Life Network and ESPN, and wanted to try it - but where to begin? Southern California's mild climate and desert landscape boast excellent year round climbing. As the sport has increased in visibility and popularity, it has also become more accessible - new indoor rock gyms, outdoor classes, and guide services are introduced in Southern California each year. Climbing is a dangerous sport, but with proper knowledge and instruction, combined with adherence to basic rules of safety, much of the risk can be managed.
There are many types and styles of climbing, from bouldering to top-roping, sport leading, and traditional lead climbing. Just as ski runs are rated with green circles and black diamonds from beginner to expert, climbs (or routes) have ratings as well. It's crucial to stay within your limit of expertise, especially if you're learning how to climb. (See ratings info below.)
The sport of climbing has its own language, terminology and commands. Whenever ropes are used in climbing, there is a person at each end. The climber ties in to one end, and the person who is belaying the climber (the belayer,) puts the rope through a belay device in his or her harness in order to arrest falls by the climber. As a belayer, the climber's life is in your hands. Do not under-estimate the importance of obtaining good instruction in belay technique. As a beginner, indoor gyms, bouldering and top-roping outdoors offer the safest entrees (sp?) to the sport of climbing.

INDOOR GYMS
Gyms offer a safe environment for beginners and a great strength workout and training ground for any level of climber. Most gyms have a variety of walls with climbing routes laid out by the color of the plastic holds or colored tape markings alongside the holds. Ropes are already affixed to anchors at the tops of each route, so climbers can move easily amongst the routes. Because of the controlled environment, the generally low heights, the clearly laid out routes, and the cushioned flooring, a gym is the usually the safest place to climb as a beginner.
Often the simplest and most low budget method of checking out the sport is an indoor gym's basic class. A gym is an excellent place to learn and practice tying in to the rope and belaying skillfully and safely. Mastering these skills before you venture outside will enhance your outdoor experience as well because if you already know your knots and how to belay, you can focus on technique, searching for hand and foot holds, and enjoying your surroundings. Gyms can also be good places to meet climbing partners, as there is generally a very social atmosphere. All gyms require an intro class or competence test be taken at your first visit. (See breakout for class listings.)

BOULDERING
Bouldering is one of the easiest intros to outdoor climbing. Ropes are not used - climbers simply work on routes or "problems" on boulders that are fairly low to the ground. Many climbers prefer bouldering to climbing with ropes because you can get strong fast by climbing more routes in a shorter amount of time than you would using ropes. Some argue bouldering is the most pure form of the sport. All you need are a pair of rock shoes and maybe a chalk bag for sweaty fingers. As you increase in skill, a portable crash pad is recommended to cushion rough falls. It is a good idea to boulder with a partner or several partners so that you have "spotters," to help protect and block falls. Many gyms also have simulated boulders or bouldering caves where you can practice technique very low to the ground with minimal risk. Check out Stoney Point in Chatsworth (off Topanga Canyon Blvd., www.sowr.com and www.ayola.com/stoney), Mt. Rubidoux in Riverside (south on Rubidoux Drive off the 60, entrance gate on Rubidoux Drive,) and Joshua Tree National Park (www.Joshua.tree.national.park.com.)

TOP-ROPING
Prefer to experience the heights of the outdoors? Climbing on top-rope requires anchors set at the top of a route - the rope runs from the climber on the ground up through the anchors and back down to the belayer on the ground. Become an experienced belayer by taking an outdoor class with a climbing school, and don't just trust your anchors to friends and strangers - take an anchor clinic, ask questions of anyone you climb with, and learn how to check all anchors you intend to climb on for safety. The basic rule with anchors is redundancy; making sure there are multiple points bearing the load - if one point should fail, the others would still hold.
Climbing on top-rope is one of the best ways to develop your skill and technique. Most intro classes provide gear, but eventually you'll need your own harness, shoes, belay device and locking carabiner. Get the guidebooks and take an anchor class (see sidebar for listing,) or go with someone who knows how to set top-rope anchors. Stoney Point, Malibu Creek, (Malibu Creek State Park on Las Virgenes Road south of the 101,) Point Dume in Malibu (at the end of Westward Beach Road just south of Zuma Beach,) Joshua Tree, and Mt. Rubidoux provide good beginner level top-roping.

SPORT LEADING
The lead climber clips into bolt hangars on metal bolts already drilled into the rock with a "quick-draw" - a section of webbing with a metal carabiner on each end. One carabiner goes into the bolt hangar, and the rope runs through the other carabiner. If the climber falls between bolts, she falls twice the distance between herself and the last bolt, making it considerably more dangerous than falling on top-rope. Sport leading requires skill and experience, both of which can be gained in a gym lead class, and through some outdoor schools. Belaying a lead climber is different because you are paying out rope rather than taking in slack as with top-roping. It is also more dangerous, as leader falls are longer and more forceful than top-rope falls, so make sure you receive proper instruction.
Most sport routes in Southern California are a single pitch - one rope length or less. Standards ropes are generally 50 meters (165 feet) or 60 meters (200 feet) long. Many sport routes are 100 feet long, requiring 60 meter ropes so that the leader can be lowered to the ground by the belayer, or can rappel. If others in your party intend to climb a route on top-rope after it has been led, learn to set your own anchors to spare the wear and tear on the fixed hardware.
In addition to a harness, shoes, belay device, locking carabiner, and a chalk bag, you'll eventually need your own rope, a set of quick-draws, and a helmet for certain. Mt. Williamson in the San Gabriel Mountains, (2.2 miles east of Krakta Ridge Ski resort on Highway 2,) Big Rock out at Lake Perris, (6.5 miles east of the 215 on the Ramona Expressway at the end of Bernasconi Rd.) and Joshua Tree offer a variety of bolted routes.

TRADITIONAL LEADING
Leaders place "protection" - active camming devices or passive nuts - in a crack system, clipping their rope into the gear. Most "trad" routes are multiple pitch - hundreds of feet, or many rope lengths up a cliff - so the leader must build an anchor system on a ledge or other belay spot and belay the "second" climber up from there. The second "cleans" the protection, bringing it with him or her to the ledge where one of the climbers prepares to lead the next pitch. Trad climbing is technical, gear intensive, and often painstaking. Take anchor and placement clinics and don't trad climb with anyone you don't know or trust first-hand to be a safe leader.
To be a good second, you'll need solid experience belaying a lead climber. In addition, you'll want shoes, a harness with loops for attaching gear and adjustable leg loops for layering clothing, a belay device, daisy chain or slings for anchoring in, several locking carabiners, preferably a cleaning tool, and always, always a helmet for falls and falling rock. You should be skilled in rappelling in order to multi-pitch climb as well. Joshua Tree and Tahquitz/Suicide Rocks (in Humber Park, Idyllwild - 26 miles south on rte. 243 from Banning off the 10, www.idyllwild.com,) provide some of the best trad climbing around.

RAPPELLING
One of the more glamorous but most dangerous aspects of climbing is rappelling. Once you've climbed a route, it may be possible to be lowered, or to walk off the back of the cliff. In sport leading, it puts less wear on the fixed anchors (and your rope) to rappel down instead of being lowered, and in trad climbing it can often be the only way down. Sometimes there are fixed anchor rappel stations; sometimes you need to leave gear behind. Double-check your anchor. Make sure your rope is long enough for both ends to reach the ground. In many cases, it can be a good idea to tie knots in the ends of the rope so you don't rappel off the end. Learn how to use your belay device for rappelling, (and make sure you know whether it does both!) Learn how to rappel before finding yourself at the top of a 200-foot cliff with no other way down, and make sure you know how to ascend back up the rope if you get stuck. Many outdoor schools offer rappelling as part of their courses - but be sure to ask if it's included in your class. Never let someone talk you into setting off over an edge on rappel if you still have questions or don't feel comfortable, and never, ever take your brake hand off the rope.

RATINGS
The American grading system defines class one and two as easy walking, class three as scrambling, class four as difficult scrambling where a rope might be preferable, and class five for technical climbing requiring a rope. Within the fifth class designation, 5.0-5.5 is considered very easy, 5.6-5.8 intermediate, 5.9-5.10 difficult, and 5.11-5.14 expert/elite. As a beginner, you may want to stick to the 5.5-5.8 range. Gym ratings do not necessarily translate into the outdoors and some climbing areas are rated harder than others. Don't assume that if you can climb or lead 5.9 in the gym that you will automatically be capable of doing the same outside. If you're unfamiliar with an area, start with the easy routes. The rock will vary between climbing areas and the required techniques may vary as well. Read the guidebooks, and familiarize yourself with the etiquette and terrain.

GEAR
SHOES: If you can only invest in one item, buy a pair of shoes. Unless you know for sure you will be strictly bouldering or crack climbing or climbing indoors only, get an all-around shoe. Look for a basic slip lasted shoe to give you sensitivity, or a board lasted shoe for more support. Most manufacturers offer an entry-level shoe for about $100.

HARNESS: If you think you will explore many types of climbing, both indoors and out, get a good all-around comfortable harness with adjustable leg loops and multiple gear loops. Streamlined sport climbers often prefer the non-adjustable leg loops and as few bulky extras as possible. Try on at least three for comparison, cinch them high and tight around your waist, and ask to hang in them so you can check for optimal fit and comfort. $30-$90.

BELAY DEVICE: There are several different brands of plates and tubes for belaying. Some have teeth for improved gripping when locking off the rope, and some allow for varying rope widths. Ask to handle them to see how they feel, and get a standard device that will also allow you to rappel. Prices range from $12-$25.

LOCKING CARABINER: They come in many sizes and shapes; both screw locking and twist locking. An oversized, pear shaped 'biner with a screw lock gate is preferable for the outdoors. $13-$20.

CHALK BAG AND CHALK: Most climbers of all styles find their hands get sweaty and slip off holds. While climbing, they'll reach one hand back into the chalk bag tied around their waist or attached to their harness, and grab a small amount of chalk to absorb the sweat. Bag - $15-$20, Chalk - $4-6.

HELMET: They come in heavy duty or lightweight - a matter of personal preference. Look for adjustability and fit. $50-$150.

TIPS
1. Never, ever take your hand off the rope when belaying.
2. Wear a helmet.
3. Never trust climbers or anchors you are unfamiliar with.
4. Make sure your rope is long enough for the climb or rappel before you set out.
5. Beware of Poison Oak, especially at Stoney Point and Big Rock.

STORES
Adventure 16 - West LA
www.adventure16.com

REI - Arcadia, Manhattan Beach, Northridge
www.rei.com

Sports Chalet - Beverly Connection, Brea, Burbank, La Canada/Flintridge, Marina Del Rey, Montclair, Torrance
www.sportchalet.com

LOCAL ROCK GYMS

Calabasas Community Center
www.ahc3.com
818-880-2993
"Intro to Rock Climbing" - Three week class, Mon. or Wed. 7-8:30pm, $60

Hangar 18 - Upland
www.ClimbHangar18.com
909-931-5991
"Climbing 101" - Four week class, Thurs. 6-8pm, $120*

LA Rock Gym - SouthBay/Hawthorne
www.LARockGym.com
310-973-3388
"Introductory Lesson" - Two hour class, Mon. or Wed. 7-9pm, $25

Red Rox - (Rope-free computerized bouldering gym,) West Hollywood
323-651-1225
"Basic Bouldering Clinic" - Two hour class, $20

Rockreation - West LA
www.Rockreation.com
310-207-7199
"Fight Gravity 1" - Three hour class, Tues. 6:30-9:30, Sa/Sun. 12-3pm, $45*

The Rock Gym at Signal Hill - Long Beach
www.therockgym.com
562-981-3200
"Intro Class" - Two hour class, Weeknights 6-8pm or Weekends 10am-12pm, $37*

Costs include shoes and harness rental. Advanced sign-up required.

*Fee includes temporary membership. Call for details.

Don't live in LA? Check www.indoorclimbing.com for a listing near you.
Other resources: www.totalescape.com or www.motherrock.com

OUTDOOR CLASSES

Adventure 16 - West LA
www.Adventure16.com
310-473-4574
"Beginning Rock Climbing" - One in-store class, one day on the rocks $85
"Day On the Rocks" - Technique Class, Joshua Tree or Idylwild $95-125
Instructors trained by Adventure16 in an AMGA accredited program

Get Lost Adventures - Marina Del Rey
www.GetLostAdventures.com
310-574-2653
"Fun At the Rocks" - One day outdoor climbing experience, little instruction $55
"Rock 1" - One day outdoor introductory class, $100
Some instructors AMGA certified

Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School - Joshua Tree
www.rockclimbingschool.com
800-890-4745
"Basic I" - Saturdays, Joshua Tree in winter, Idyllwild in summer, $85
"Basic II" - Sundays, $85
Weekend Combo - $165
Instructors are AMGA Certified Guides

Vertical Adventures - Newport Beach
www.Vertical-Adventures.com
800-514-8785
"Basic" - One day, Joshua Tree in winter, Idyllwild in summer, $90
"Intermediate One" - One day, $90
Combo - $175
Instructors are AMGA Certified Guides

Southern California Mountaineers Association
www.rockclimbing.org
Safety Skills Class - Seven Saturdays starting January 2003, $350
Taught by SCMA member volunteers

MUST-READ BOOKS

How to Rock Climb, by John Long - offers step by steps on learning to climb.

Rock Climbing: A Trailside Guide, by Don Mellor - an overview of the sport and terms.

So Cal Select: Southwest Rock Climbing, by Randy Vogel - highlights top local crags.

NEXT STEP BOOKS

Advanced Rock Climbing, by John Long and Craig Luebben

Climbing Anchors, by John Long

Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide, Falcon Guides

Southern California Boulder Guide and Southern California Sport Climbing Guide, by Craig Fry (out of print, next printing avail. Dec.)

Urban Rock, Stoney Point Climber's Guide - Christopher Owen (still in print?)

Williamson Rock Pocket Guide, by Troy Mayr and Anthony Sweeney

BACK