Narrative Page Index

Travel is a discovery process.  Most often it is seeing for the first time something that you have heard or read about, and confirming what you already knew.

And sometimes it is "discovering" the truly new to you.  For us, such was the case with 

Salona

Settled 3,000 years ago, developed more by Greek colonists, selected by the Romans as the Capital of their Province of Dalmatia, and lastly chosen as the seat of a Bishopric in the 6th Century, it was the largest city on the Dalmatian coast.  It boasted an Amphitheater, a Forum, a theater, superb city walls and an enlightened population.  And in the early 610's the Avars arrived and destroyed it.  Completely.

And it is the survivors who rebuild cities and civilizations.  And in the case of Salona, what survivors that there were, chose not to.  And the city lay in ruins, serving only as a mine for stones.  And even that stopped, and it sat some more.  Until the 1800's when it was slowly rediscovered and portions were reclaimed from the debris of 1600 years.

And for today's tourist, the shear joy of the place is it's immensity.  1700 meters long - 700 meters wide.  A size to rival Rome.  And the tourist can appreciate the site without having to deconstruct whatever new construction may have been piled on top of the old.  There wasn't any.  A completely virgin site.

It completely blew us away (for lack of a better phrase).  Yes the Forum in Rome is more spectacular.  But you cannot begin to grasp the size of Rome with all the other buildings around the ancient ruins.  This was a special site for us.

Split

Another "discovery" awaited in Split.  We went to see the Palace of Diocletian, Roman Emperor from 285 to 305 when he choose to retire.  He was probably from Salona and he elected to build a palace near there on an empty stretch of coastline.  In the shape of a square, 2 city blocks long on each side, he built his residence, office and supporting buildings in stone and covered all with walls and towers 50 feet high.  Well regarded by his peers and historians as a positive emperor he did have one flaw - he aggressively persecuted Christians in a violent manner.  He added many names to the Church's list of Saints with his actions.  Within 10 years Christianity was accepted by the Emperor Constantine for the entire Empire.

After the sack of Salona the survivors settled into the old palace and never really left.  Thus, today the walls still remain but building upon building has been built into the structure, and whatever might have been the royal residence is now housing, or offices, or shops.

Within the palace, at the crossroads of the 2 principal streets is a public square in which a hotel restaurant has set up a most interesting cafe of sorts. There you can sit on cushions set upon the 1700 year old stones with a little table between you and enjoy your repast.  What is significant about this location is that the building, above, was Diocletian's Tomb, where he was laid to rest in 315 AD.  And ironically, the Church he persecuted removed his tomb and body in the 700's and converted his tomb into the Cathedral of Split.  Left almost as it was in 315, except for a few church related enhancements, we found this structure most fascinating and interesting.  Small and dark, it just had an aura that touched both of us.  No photos allowed.

The Little Blue Kid Outside

The Republic of Ragusa

For almost 1000 years the Republic of Ragusa maintained its independence in a violent world, mainly through skillful use of the Art of Diplomacy.  They were able to fend off or finesse fierce inland tribes, Hungarians, Franks, Saracens, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans.  It was only after the world changed around them did a Napoleonic army outlast them in 1808 and declared them null and void.  But oh how magnificent they were.

Today when you visit the World Class tourist destination city of Dubrovnik the first thing that you will notice is the magnitude of the city walls.  Not just their expanse, but their substance as well.   Thick and tall, they stood the test with only a standard garrison of 300 supplemented by the City Guard when needed.   In the 6 month siege in 1991-92, 300 soldiers, auxiliaries and police were killed in defending the city from "Greater Serbia".

Huge structures that encircle the city and insure, with strength, what diplomacy may not always achieve.  You can walk the complete circuit of the walls and at their high point above the sea you are 200 feet above the waterline.

More Dubrovnik Walls

Koncerti

Next - Camping on Board

The Narrative - Page Index