R/C Bluenose II
by Billy Shaw

Here's a functional waterworthy R/C adaptation of the static model Bluenose II by Billing Boats, the Danish model company.

The boat is a basic plank-on-rib all-wood model kit. Billing Boats designs this hull to be built in two pieces, a left and a right half. To build this adaptation, we changed the hull construction procedure to the extent that it resembles the construction of a conventional floating wooden boat kit. All of the R/C equipment (a 2-channel Futaba) fits under a removable deckhouse into hullspace created by modifying most of the aft bulkheads and adding interior decking.



The Bluenose II kit is probably the smallest true scale rendition I'd seriously consider modifying for sailing use. This model is only about 18 inches including the bowsprit. Nonetheless, it is possible to cram a conventional 2-channel radio into the hull attractively and still maintain the boyancy and righting characteristics required of any vessel intended for water.

Note also that the real Bluenose II is a modern vessel dating back to the 1960's. This helps explain the prominent radome visible in some of these photos. The Bluenose II was built in Canada to celebrate the memory of the original Bluenose, itself a prominent early twentieth century fishing-turned-racing sailboat. Billing Boats offers very attractive kits for each of these vessels. Their kit for the original Bluenose is in fact considerably larger than their Bluenose II; it is suspected that their larger kit would be more suited to an R/C adaptation. But in my own humble opinion, their smaller kit is in fact more attractive as a static model in addition to the challenge that it represents. Note that each of these kits is fairly inexpensive compared to an R/C-intended kit. For the kit shown here, completed project (including radio, glue, stains, paints, and miscellaneous mechanical fittings) were around $200 US... and at that, I bought everything in a retail hobby shop; cost over the web would have been even cheaper (though my preference is to support local hobby concerns within reason).


Other than the techniques utilized to build the hull with the required adaptations for the R/C equipment, there isn't much difference between the Billing Boats version and the one shown here. The goal of this project was to demonstrate the viability of converting this model into a fully- functioning R/C pond boat. The biggest visual difference between the static and the functioning versions is the servo-driven equipment poking out of the top of the deckhouse (as well as modification to the deckhouse itself).

Here's a view of the deckhouse from the rear. There are two holes in the forward portion of its roof. These align over the two servos attached into the compartment under this structure. The portside servo attaches to the rudder via pushrod as shown. The starboard servo drives a single sail winch onto which five sheets are attached. The prominent line running across the picture attached to the main boom is the main sheet. All functioning sheets on this model are fashioned from flyfishing dacron backing.

Here's a view of the front of the deckhouse. This is a modification to the original model; its purpose is to cover the servos' brackets where they mount directly to the deck. Note the screw in the middle. This holds the entire deckhouse in place; in fact, it's the only fastener used to do so.

Note the on-off switch fastened directly into the deck. This is the switch that comes with the R/C equipment. The slack lines running down the deck in the background are some of the sheets attached to the sail winch.

Shown here is the sail winch engaged. It pulls three jib sheets and two mains. There are four holes in the arm as taken out of the package; all of them are utilized.

The fittings shown here (and above) handling the main sheet are brass fishing leader pieces. Five of the seven sails on this model are R/C enabled. The winch tightens (or loosens) all of them simultaneously.

Here's a shot showing all of the sheets tightened. No modifications to rigging were necessary to accommodate straight sheet travel; they can go tight or slack without getting hung up in any of the static rigging.

The structure in the middle of the boat covers a hatch in the deck through which about 5 ounces of ballast (stainless steel BB's) was placed. The R/C equipment rides fairly high in the hull. The batteries sit a little lower in the hull (colocated at the on-off switch), and the additional ballast sits at the bottom of the hull under a coating of epoxy.

Here's a chance to see sheet travel in tightened trim. Other than the R/C enabled sheets, all of the rigging is standard out-of-the-box as provided by Billing.

Once the planking and railings completed the hull, seven layers of lacquer followed by seven layers of acrylic were placed over the hull and deck. Epoxy was used to create a waterproof seam where the deck meets the hull.

The radio equipment sits high enough in the hull that any invasive water will remain well below the electronics.

The bow portion of this model looks just like the standard static kit. However, note that some rigging lines out to the bowsprit have been ignored. This was done to eliminate excess clutter near the functional jib boom.

The "shine" on the deck itself is due to all the acrylic coating utilized to ensure a watertight model.

Here the sails are "neutral", ie., the sail winch is in its neutral position. This is the boat's normal sailing trim.

The model kit comes with a piece of wood intended to assist in half-hull construction. We opted to stain it with teak, trim it with metallic gold paint, and glue it to the boat stand. Note the felt trim on the boat stand between it and the hull. There are also little rubber feet under the stand.

A top view of most of the boat belies very little of the modifications aimed at its functionality. All of the sails visible in this photo are R/C enabled.

The basic idea behind implementing the sails in the manner shown is to tighten the trim for sailing close to the wind, while allowing ample slack to luff the sails (quickly) to protect the boat as necessary. Following the design of the real thing, this model doesn't provide much main boom travel. At full slack, all of the sails travel farther than the main. This configuration is intended to put the boat into the wind with a minimal amount of effort.


It takes about fifteen minutes to remove the radio equipment, change the batteries, and reassemble. My preference for further work on this design is to install a rechargable battery pack and fit a recharge connection onto the deck. Nonetheless, the current version as shown is fully capable of going into the water and sailing. But the exciting thing about this model is that it can stand on its static merits at a model boat show as nicely as a well-executed static version.

Scale wooden R/C sailboat kits are a dying breed. The future of this hobby may well be represented by static conversions. If this is the case, then so be it. The result is, as always, limited only by the imagination, technical, and aesthetic execution of the artful modelmaker.

New! Guillow Sopwith Camel R/C Conversion

Click on the picture to see the newest air project. It's Guillow's Sopwith Camel converted to four-channel R/C with a .15 engine; More radio and engine than ever packed into 28 inches!

The Fairwind II

Click on the picture to see this older but popular project. It's the Kyosho Fairwind II, one of the most popular modern almost-class model yachts on the water.

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